Monday, September 21, 2009

Discovering Jakob Bengel

a_s_proto deco necklace
a_s_proto necklace

I made a few new necklaces last week. They look a bit 80’s and a bit Art Deco’ish. It’s only by accident, I was just using the details I had near me, honest! Of course I love Art Deco design and jewellery, so it’s not such a big surprise.



I just checked online to see if there’s any original Art Deco jewellery on offer. This is what I discovered.


Jakob Bengel 12
Jakob Bengel jewellery from the 1930s

I found some great pieces by someone- please excuse my ignorance, never heard of him before- called Jakob Bengel on graysantiques.com Pics above are from that site.




Jakob Bengel 10

Jakob Bengel jewellery


Found some more fantastic necklaces by Jakob Bengel at gardenpartycollection.com. Pic above is from that site.




Jakob Bengel 14


Jakob Bengel 16


Jakob Bengel 15

Jakob Bengel necklaces


And then I hit gold and found even more great stuff by Jakob Bengel at tademagallery.com

Pics above are from www.tademagallery.com


Oh My God, I Google’d more and found so much of his stuff and so much about him! He is fantastic!!! I’m a fan! Never knew he existed!

Monday, September 14, 2009

Drawing closer

IMG_0144

It’s not always very clear, where the idea for the collection comes from. One looks at lots and lots of things, goes to exhibitions, searches the internet, sits in the library and goes through many books and collects lots of research. In this huge amount of information there will be some images that seem more interesting than the others. So you will print out a few, put on the floor and look at them for a while.

And then you go and look for MORE interesting stuff, as if you did not have enough research already. Then you will let it all settle a bit.


At some point you’ll get a certain kind of feeling of what you will want to make. Well, that’s how it works for me anyway. During the design process it will usually all change, but you have to start from somewhere.


ben nicholson in tate britain 3


Ben Nicholson 1


ben nicholson in tate britain


I had been collecting lots of research when suddenly I realised that what I was interested in was art. Art by some certain artists. I saw some fantastic works by Ben Nicholson in Tate Britain. It was white on white geometric cutout shapes from the 30’s and elegant line drawings. I found the same works also on Tate online

http://www.tate.org.uk , where those images above originate.



Ben Nicholson 3


I looked at a book called Ben Nicholson Recent Paintings on Paper and realised I was very interested in drawing, the line and the empty space. Pics above are from that book.


Maret Olvet 1


Maret Olvet 3



I found another inspirational artist, Maret Olvet from Estonia. Loved her colours and shapes. Pics from www.vaal.ee and www.haus.ee


All this did not take me very far. Except that I knew that I wanted to design some prints with hand drawn lines, something spontaneous and a bit… “arty” ( sorry, it sounds terrible!).


sketch 2


Untitled-1


graphite figure 2


sketch


By accident I picked out some of my own old drawings from a few years ago. They are old rough sketches and graphite fashion drawings which I liked because of their spontaneity.



036 copy2


Then I just took paper and started scribbling and drawing without thinking much


050 copy


025 copy


Out came those swirls you have seen before in this blog. I drew a whole mountain of them, maybe about 100.

The best ones I scanned in, blew them up and scattered all over the fabric with no repeats. And that’s how my prints were born.



IMG_0161


It’s a whole science to get the colours right in Photoshop, when filling in a surface that has different shades.


To get the colours I wanted, I printed out a sample with dots, and numbered the favourite dots. Of course I could have done a sample of each print, but the time was not on my side. The problem was also the size of the files, they were HUGE! More than 200MB, so it took forever to make even smallest of changes. So I had to get it right from the start- that’s what I thought.



graph 5


Still it was always a small surprise when I got my fabrics back from printing: oh, that’s how it came out! But that’s allright, because this collection is inspired by art and you must leave room for coincidence and happy accidents when making art.


I did some different colourways too, just wanted to see what happens if it was orange :-)


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I took pics of ready fabrics on the dummie. Somehow it’s very hard to see what you are doing by just looking at it. You have to look through the mirror or take a photo.

The photo always tells the truth. Most of the designers take photos of their work in progress, because then you can see what is wrong.

Now all there is left to do is to turn those fabrics into a collection.


toile 2


I have only done some toiling and sketching. The most interesting toiles so far are the ones I made using some horrible old ripped up dress I found from somewhere.



toile 1

It really is an old rag, and I did not even bother to iron it, but you must know how to READ those pictures and the toile. You must be able to SEE the interesting detail, the interesting cut. You must be able to see the potential of fantastic dress even in a horrible rag of a toile.

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

a_s_proto jewellery in London and Tallinn

a_s_proto n149_1

Lots of things have happened since the last posting. There’s a whole new installation of my jewellery and graphics in design and fashion boutique called Nu Nordik, in Nordic capital Tallinn, Estonia.


a_s_proto necklace n148


a_s_proto necklace n151


These necklaces with giant blond wooden balls you will find in Nu Nordik only.


a-s_proto necklace n146_1


a_s_proto necklace n146


I have managed to source some chunky bicycle(lookalike) chains. At the moment I have only made some samples while waiting for the delivery of more of those great chains in mid September. Then I will surely put some new designs using them on Etsy as well.


digitaria


From this week one of the coolest fashion boutiques in London called Digitaria will be stocking my jewellery too!


a_s_proto necklace n149


This necklace is exclusive to Digitaria. As you can see,the whole Tribe jewellery collection has been evolving and I have started mixing the zip theme with the tribal notes.